Author: Butty

Up at crack of dawn to visit the Temples knowing it will be quite a long day.

The Temples were built as Palaces for the Gods and not as places of worship and were constructed by on behalf of different Rulers from the 7th to 13th centuries. Sometimes existing temples were added to rather then rebuilt and over the centuries different architectural styles were adopted although we found this pretty difficult to see at times. Generally they are built from huge blocks of sandstone and each block is carved with a portion of a scene that is being depicted which may be an elephant or serpent etc.

This is part of the most well known temple ” Angkor Wat”

There are lots of different levels the nearer you get to the centre and the main towers. In effect they form a pyramidal effect with steep stone stairways to each level.

The towers are built of carved blocks and are are basically square but the very clever tapering gives an almost rounded effect. The very top of the towers tend to be open to the sky.

Wooden stairways over the existing to protect them but these were pretty formidable especially coming down.

Although the concept of the design was Hinduism , Buddhism is now the dominant Cambodian religion.

Carvings and bas- relief absolutely everywhere. Quite incredible.

Lunch stop after a very long and hot morning having visited three different temples the last two being within the vast moated ancient city of Angkor Thom which is about 3km square.

This temple is called Bayon within Angkor Thom and used to be the highest but the central ” pyramid ” collapsed and is gradually being restored.

Most of the temples were left to be ravaged by the jungle which caused major collapses of the structures and they became ruins. Some , especially Angkor Wat , were still being used for religious ceremony. In the 1800’s the French took on some of the restoration but when the site became a World Heritage site in 1992 restoration has been overseen by the French and Japanese.

Some of the sites have been partially untouched to show how the large jungle tree root systems can devour everything.

Amazing tree roots at the Ta Prohm temple.
This is where a lot of the Indiana Jones movies have been filmed.

Just after this visit ended the heavens opened and we made a quick retreat back to our waiting tuk tuk and went back to hotel for a well deserved swim ( with complimentary tea)

At the appointed hour of 6 pm Me and Er went for our hour long full body massage and very nice is was .

Started today in Phnom Penh, caught the 7.30 ‘speed’ boat to Siem Reap. Got to the quay at 7am and looked at an old cigarette tube that we were going to be entombed in four 6hours, ugh! The boat had quite a few foreigners on it, so that helped. We chatted to a couple from SA and a woman from Las Vegas, so it ended up being quite fun. We lasted about 30 seconds in our seats, which were noisy, smelly from diesel fumes and by the loo. We headed for a cabin at the front which had bench seating and was ok. We alternated that with sitting on the front ‘deck’, loose description. Bit of a challenge getting out there as there was no rail for a few feet and it felt a bit scary.

Speed boat!

Inside cigarette tube

The trip was interesting as we passed loads of really poor villages where fishing was obviously their occupation. All the family seemed to be out on the boats. The houses are on stilts and made of palms. They look like they won’t last through the first storm that hits.

Fishing families on the Tonle Sap River

Eventually the river widens out into the Tonle Sap Lake and is so big you cannot see land for a lot of the journey.

Six hours later and we arrive at the dropping off point for the shortish journey to Siem Reap town.

Another prearranged tuk- tuk was waiting for us holding up a sign with our name on it. Kelly Cabs Cambodian style, who took us the 40 min ride to our hotel over some of the bumpiest roads imaginable . Surprised the tuk tuk suspension didn’t give way.

Arrived at hotel to an extraordinary welcome. Lots of bowing and how are you today etc. We were sat down and presented with a couple of refreshing iced teas. They took all our information over tea and told us all about the hotel. We were given a coupon for a small snack to take with us the next day whilst touring the Temples. To cap it all they asked what time we would like our one hour complimentary massage and what sort we would like. This is alright so booked six o clock tomorrow evening.

We had arranged with our same tuk tuk man to be picked up at 4.30 to go to a temple on a hill to watch the sunset, something everyone seems to do. Luckily there was a good sunset.

Back to hotel and another complimentary drink was awaiting us. Madness ?

We had dinner in the hotel ( 4 kinds of Amok) during which the manager presented us with another coupon for a complimentary BBQ for the next night. BBQ I think means you have a heater of some sort in the middle of your table and cook various ingredients yourself. We will see. The hotel is quite small but seems busy so why all the freebies who knows. All the staff are absolutely charming and can’t do too much for you.

Up tomorrow at seven to do the Temples which will be a long day.

One day in Phnom Penh, so it’s all go. We have booked our boat trip to Siem Reap for tomorrow. Recommended by a very nice American couple we met at breakfast. Should be interesting, 6 hours up the Mekong and then across a lake to our destination. Only thing I’m worried about is the rails holding the luggage on board! They don’t look too strong!!
Then we meet Touc (“Small” in Cambodian) our friendly tuk tuk driver from yesterday. We had negotiated a day with him driving us. We were off 15km out of town to The Killing Fields. Not our favourite thing to do, but an essential part of Cambodian recent history, so we gritted our teeth and went for it. Forty minutes drive on a tuk tuk and we arrived.

Touc nee “Small “our driver for the day

The killing fields was a very moving experience, and as it affects everyone in Cambodia still, we thought it a must do.

The memorial to the 3million who lost their lives during Pol Pots reign of terror

From there we went to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, in for a penny ……. This was a former primary school taken over by the Khmer Rouge for detention and torture of so called dissidents. Another gruelling hour was spent here. At least we now feel we know some of what the Cambodians and Vietnamese have been through in the past fifty years. I think what has shaken us most is that it all has happened in our life time.

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

We now decided to shake off the past and head for the Central Market. Touc left us there for an hour, and we managed a little bargaining.

The outside of the central market

From here next stop was the Royal Palace. Buddhism is the main religion and within the Palace is the Silver Temple. Fabulous buildings in complete contrast to the rest of the city. In all our travels you get this huge contrast between the rich and the poor and the refined and the ugly. Huge skyscrapers owned by the banks and financial institutions next to squalor or religious icons next to squalor. Just the way of the world today but a bit difficult to get your head around when actually amidst it all. Butty getting a bit sentimental but not surprising after some of the sites/sights we have seen.

We had arranged to meet Touc at 5 pm at the FCC so had a bit of time to kill after the Royal Palace so had a couple of beers to wash down the dust of the days travelling around and out of the city.

View from the balcony of the FCC

Almost at the end of the very long day but we wanted to see the OLD railway station. A bit of an attraction because Cambodia no longer has ANY rail network. Too late is was closed. From there on the way back to the hotel we went passed some Government buildings that we understand were built or financed by the Chinese. They certainly had a Chinese look to them.

Back at the hotel and a well deserved swim in the pool. We couldn’t face more tuk-tuk drives so we decided to eat in the hotel and were very pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food, only because the menu did not “read” that well. This is a delightful little oasis in the middle of you know what.

Fantastic day in Phnom Penh.

If you are not too squeamish see “Gallery”

After a leisurely breakfast we set off by taxi to catch our 10.30 bus to Phnom Penh a 6 hour journey. There is no bus station so we were dropped off along a street where the bus ticket office is located. We did know this this in advance so it was not a surprise.
The bus arrived on time, luggage loaded, tickets checked, bus full and off we went.

Negotiated our way out of the city through the normal throng of scooters which eased a little as we got further away.

Traffic and ribbon development all the way to the border where we all got off the bus to go through Vietnamese Immigration. Our passports had already been collected on the bus and all we had to do is collect them again when our names were called out after checking and stamping. On the bus again and drove 100 m to the Cambodian side . Off again and through the happy happy Cambodian Immigration. Showed our passport and visa to and old grump who pencilled something on the visa a waved us to another lady grump 2m away who checked again and stamped the passport. Great on our way, but no, another grump another 2 m away checked it all again before we had the honour of entering the Royal Kingdom of Cambodia

The scenery completely changed to open watery rice paddy fields and buffalo grazing and wallowing in the water. Very beautiful.

Just after entering Cambodia we stopped for 20 min lunch break.

Lunch break cafe!

The afternoon wore on through fields, rivers and canals. We had to cross the mighty Mekong on a floating bridge, quite well organised and very busy. We got on the second one. The remainder of the journey was following the Mekong to Phnom Penh.

Crossing the mighty Mekong

Arrived in Phnom Penh at about 4pm, and picked up by a tuk tuk driver for delivery to our hotel.

Tuk tuk driver and Savages suitcases

In the evening we were picked up by Louise, a friend of Chris and Martins, and taken to a restaurant they frequent, child friendly, expat community. There we met Andrew, husband, and their beautiful Cambodian children and several friends. We had a lovely meal with them. Afterwards Louise took us along the riverside and we decided to make our own way back to the hotel. We were able to pick the brains of some locals, so it was a great evening for us, thank you C and M for the contact. After being dropped on the riverside we managed to find the FCC, (Foreign Correspondents Club) for a drink. Lovely location, will probably manage that again before we leave.

We had booked a tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels which are just outside the city. These tunnels were used by the Viet Cong during the war to live and hide whilst fighting the USA occupying forces.
We waited in our hotel to be picked up between 8 and 9am but by 9.15 we were still waiting. The end result was that we had been forgotten and therefore no tunnels for us. We leave tomorrow so no chance of going another day. Never mind.
Instead we went to the ” War Remnants Musuem “. A strange name but basically it tracks the Vietnam War from their perspective i.e the USA were definitely the aggressors killing and maiming millions of innocent men, women and children. There are graphic images of the results of mass bombing, napalm, chemicals and the herbicides used for defoliation. Children are still being born today with deformities as a result of these chemicals etc.
There are images from the main POW camp on a nearby island showing the cells, torture chambers and even an old French guillotine.
All in all a very depressing place graphically showing the stupidity of the war and how we treat fellow human beings. You would of thought that the 2nd WW would put an end to this form of mass killing and torture.
Although depressing it was also very moving and a place we had to see whilst in this part of the world.

Some of the American firepower on show. Even with this little lot they could not defeat the VC who had virtually none at all.

Sums it all up I suppose

Although communism still prevails in Vietnam a heavy price had to be paid and I suspect they are still feeling the long term effects not only from the years of French colonial rule but then the years of the war with the USA. This appears to be a pretty poor country all be it a fascinating one to visit.

Off on the bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia tomorrow .

Came across this little street thingy going on. You never know what ‘s around the corner

We were up crack of dawn for our 3 hour bus ride to the Mekong Delta/River. We were a group of thirteen of all nationalities all of whom spoke English so we had a good time getting to know one another on the bus.
On the way stopped at a Government sponsored workshop for handicapped people who were making all sorts on items using mother of pearl, eggshell and lacquer.

As soon as we arrived at the Mekong we boarded our little motor boat for the trip. Boats of all sizes everywhere some carrying goods and some were homes of families that live and work on the water. All along the banks are shops and homes and small businesses. The river and waterways are the lifeblood of this part of Vietnam. There is water everywhere.

We then crossed the main river to the other side and up one of the many tributaries .
Lush vegetation on both sides together with small houses and lots more boats

Eventually we stop and get into smaller dugout type boats and a lady standing at the rear with two oars rowed further up the river where we stopped for a light lunch and for some a cold beer.

Hard work going against the flow

After lunch and a stroll around the little village we boarded our boat for the return trip

Our lunch stop

We headed on back to meet up with our minibus at a different place than we were dropped off.
To reach the bus we left our boat right by a market that we needed to walk through. A market that was truly different than the many we have already experienced so far this trip. Live chickens with their legs tied up laid out on the floor. Sea/river snakes live in tanks for sale. Meat being chopped up on the floor. Horrible sight but who are we to criticise?

Live river fish being sold by the weight

A long and tiring day but fascinating to see the Vietnamese way of life along the river. They don’t have a lot so they need to scratch a living where they can but this is a pretty brutal place to have to do it.

This area of southern Vietnam is not a pretty place. It is noisy, scruffy, dirty and to begin with chaotic by our standards but there does seem to be self styled order about things that we are getting used to, even crossing the road which seemed impossible a couple of days ago. Now we just walk and everyone, the millions of motor bikes and cars just seem to know you are there and go round you. No other way of doing it.

Dawn broke through a bit of smog in Ho Chi Minh City, HCMC from now on. This is the city of scooters, motorbikes, noise, pollution, hawkers, chaos. We have never seen so many bikes, going in all directions horns going as they all manage to miss one another. Crossing the road is a leap of faith!!! The hotel is simple and clean a step down from KL, but OK. The staff are friendly and helpful. We decided to walk the local sites, so after breakfast we stepped out into the heat. Paul did get involved with a man carrying coconuts and water, should have kept moving, but asked a question and that is a yes to selling you anything. He bought a coconut with the top sliced off and a straw for £4.50, probably 10times over the market rate, but when you ‘re dealing in thousands it’s a bit confusing. As a result all today’s purchases related to one or two or more times a coconut drink!!
First stop was the Cathedral Notre Dame and the post office. The cathedral was very simple inside and out. Great French influence here not shown in this particular piece of architecture. The post office definitely had a European style. Hawkers outside and tourist police to make sure we carried our bags and cameras safely and to help us across the road!

Notre Dame Cathedral

Post office

Inside the post office

From here we walked down Dong Khoi towards the Saigon River. We took in the Opera another old colonial building before we went inside an air conditioned mall to cool down and have iced coffee.

Front facade of the Opera, pity about the posters

From there to the river frontage. Bliss I hear you all sigh, rubbish, smelly, and muddy was the reality. Not a pleasant river frontage. Paul enjoyed taking photos of the river boats and motor bikes, I just was looking to plug the aroma, not my favourite place this holiday!

Boys at work?

We walked from the river back to the hotel and decided a cool down was in order, so we organised and booked tickets. Firstly for our bus trip to Phnom Penh on Sunday, and then a day trip to the Mekong Delta tomorrow. We also browsed trip advisor for restaurants for tonight’s meal and asked the receptionist to book it for us.
A walk around the market was the afternoon trip. A real experience. Butchers with no refrigeration, fish and eels either on ice or alive, loads of dried fruit and fish, nuts, teas, coffee and that’s just the foodie bit. The photos will probably give you an idea!

Fish sellers

Butchers!

General picture of the market

In the evening we took a taxi and went to a great restaurant called Cac Gach Quan, very busy and really good Vietnamese food. The menu was huge, so we asked the waiter to choose for us and he did a great job.

The beautiful river

All packed up and ready to go for next leg to Ho Chi Minh City.
Back to KL in a week or so and will explore a little more then.
KL airport is an hour from the city centre by Skybus. There is fast train but our Air Asia tickets include transfers from and to KL which is very useful. Arrived at the LCCT (Low Cost Carrier Terminal) which is the opposite side to main International terminal. A new Terminal for all the low cost carriers is being built but for now LCCT is the only one. It is mainly for AirAsia and is huge with zillions of people flying everywhere around this part of the world although I did see a flight to Gatwick.
The planes and flight no problem but the passengers are a nightmare. Chaos finding their seats, wanting to change seats, kids jumping about on seats ( one actually on takeoff) ignoring seat belt instructions etc etc. different world and different culture I suppose but that is why we are travelling here.
Next experience was immigration at Ho Chi Minh Airport. We had our electronic “letters of approval” to enter the country that we got from UK together with filled in visa application with attached photo all ready for immigration. The idea is to speed up the visa which is then stuck into your passport on the payment of $25 each. Well Butty thought that this could be done using a card but no no has to be cash. You know me, no cash. OK I ask what now. Go get money. Where? Outside . What! So I try to go through passport control and get stopped. Need money. OK. Went through another security check and found an ATM and took out 3,000,000 Dong. Yes 3 million. Took me while to sort out exchange rate to get enough cash to release Me and Er from the grips of Vietnam border guards.
One pound is about 32,000 Dong. Went back in through security and passport control without being questioned and paid up our dues. A mere 1.2 million Dong. By the time we got to baggage claim there were just two lonely bags revolving, but at least we had them. To finally exit the airport which I had already done very successfully we had to put our bags through a security scanner to make sure we had no weapons or bombs I suppose. We had just come off a plane !!. What fun.
Took taxi to hotel and that could be another short story.
What a city but will leave that to next blog.

This restaurant recommended by hotel a short distance away on foot. Traditional Vietnamese. Four courses and 3 beers for next to nothing. Great .

We have now found out there are about 5 million scooters in HCMC city and we have seen most of them.

Breakfast in the hotel this morning and what a breakfast choice there was . We have not ever seen such a spread for breakfast as this. All buffet style from traditional, sushi, curry, healthy, waffles, fruit, savoury etc etc. wonderful.
The hotel is absolutely exquisite With respect to quality, decor, friendliness and helpfulness.

This is reflection of part of the hotel in the building next door

The beautiful reception lobby

Two magnificent stair ways but of course only one Rene

We decided to have a fairly lazy day rather than trying to see all in the city
We were told about a craft centre next door so we popped along there and ended up spending a couple of hours chatting to all the craft people. These ranged from artists, batik printers, wood carvers etc. The most interesting wood carver was a guy who specialised in carving noses. Why I asked and ended up half an hour later with all sorts of info on noses which will be too lengthy to go into here. We bought a nose though and a very nice nose he assures us it is.

A small selection

Our friend the nose carver

Lazed around the pool in the afternoon with a brief interlude supping jasmine tea and a few bikkies in the lounge

Indulged in a couple of Singapore Slings before we went out to eat

Up at crack of dawn as our taxi was ordered for 07.00 which was actually a little early. The journey the the station known as the “Woodlands Checkpoint” took less time than expected owing to light traffic so we had plenty of time to kill.
The station is situated at the north of Singapore island just across the water from Malaysia and is the main crossing point. The “station” has one platform that is mainly deserted (which is technically on the Malaysian side) and on the Singapore side there are no facilities at all, not even a loo. Most bizarre. Singapore is such a chic and organised place this was a bit of a shock. It felt like a checkpoint you might of expected going from east to west Germany years ago. Big signs saying no photos for fear of imprisonment ! We went through immigration etc and boarded our train which left on time. The train had been really advanced in it’s day! However it’s days were long since over and it was a grubby, bumpy ride to Kuala Lumpur, KL (as we travellers say).
Taxi from station to was another rickety experience, with our bags held in with one bungi strap!!!
HOWEVER on arriving at The Royal Chulan Hotel, we were really pleasantly surprised. A beautiful, elegant Malaysian style hotel. Upgraded room and the journey was long forgotten. Also had the privilege of watching the arrival of the King and Queen of Malaysia, a friend of the Royal Families daughter was having a wedding reception at the hotel. Everyone arrived in traditional costume and greeted each other Malay style. Paul and I sat in the lobby like uninvited guests and watched the whole thing. We were even invited to watch the rest of the proceedings in the ballroom, but felt somewhat under dressed in shorts and T shirts!

Typical view from train, en route to KL

Lobby of hotel with reception party for Royal Wedding

Although in Malaysia we ate Chinese again because we came across this “open air” but covered restaurant with lots of people queuing for tables. Must be good we said and it was. They must have served 500 people while we were there which wasn’t that long. There were also lots of small private dining areas around the perimeter.

The Hakka

A great atmosphere and as you can see it is really very basic ( metal exposed roof girders, green plastic garden chairs and all the ” crockery” was plastic and of course the chop sticks)

For a multi faith country Xmas is a big thing as per this shopping mall next door to our hotel.

It is amazing what can be experienced in just a day. Tis just great.

On our first and only full day in Singapore. We got up early to take full advantage of it. We started going to an ATM to get Singapore Dollars, and needed up having a traditional Singapore breakfast of soft boiled eggs, toast, sweet coffee and coconut spread. And very nice it was too, as usual we were the only Europeans in the place. On advice from hotel concierge we took the bus to the botanical gardens. Our 4th so far, but different because of the ginger and orchid gardens, and they were truly beautiful. After that another bus trip to Raffles Hotel. Paul wanted to go there for a pic, as he has one his Dad took outside 60 years ago. Raffles was as you imagine, old colonial and full of Americans! Then a walk in very humid conditions to the sky park. Maybe you’ve seen in on TV, during the Singapore Grand Prix. A three tower building with a boat across the three roofs. An amazing structure. We took the lift to the 57th floor for a great view of Singapore. We enjoyed it so much we are back there tonight for dinner and a view of the lights, should be great.

Botanical gardens lake with swan sculpture

Orchid garden

Raffles Hotel

Skypark on top of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and the Science Museum.

The boat shaped Skypark that sits on top of the three towers is modelled on the container ships that sit out in the bay waiting to be unloaded at the container port that is very close by.
The “bow” part of the boat is where the observation deck is situated on the 57 th floor and where some of these photos were taken.
There is also a cocktail bar and restaurant where we are going tonight. If you go to the restaurant you don’t have to pay to go up which we had to earlier.

A small section of the F1 Grand Prix circuit to the right of the wheel

The infinity pool etc for the hotel guests

Singapore at night from the stunning roof top of the Skypark

We had great cocktails and a superb meal but the price of the wine was a joke ( only to be expected) . Well worth doing. It was quite special.

Got back to the hotel very late because our dinner reservation wasn’t until 9.30 . Never mind only have to get up at 6.00 to catch our train in the morning to Kuala Lumpur. Nighty night.

Rain, rain, rain and more rain. This is the 5th day of rain and the sun has not shown itself for a minute.
Popped over the road to a local Saturday farmers market full of lots of great goodies all mainly local and organic. Could of had a field day buying all sorts but sadly not possible as we are on our travels again this afternoon.
Had a light lunch before M&C took us to the airport for our 4.30pm flight to Singapore.

Chris fed the birds after lunch.

Well the sun has finally come out and it is pretty warm again so we leave OZ in the sun

Chaos at Sydney Airport with passengers departing on international flights. It seems everyone has to be “checked out” of the country which is all very well but need it take half an hour. I was told very impolitely to remove my hat by a very stern lady with no humour whatsoever. Thanks for coming !! . Also with no automatic check-in and security queues it all took about an hour which meant we had little time to wait before we boarded for our 8 hour flight to Singapore.

No more moaning as we are now looking forward to the next three weeks in lands anew.

Bye bye Oz and thanks to all who put us up and put up with us.

Plane left a little late but arrived on time after a nice smooth and not too arduous flight.
We arrived at 9.30 local but this equated to 00.30 Sunday morning Oz time.
Went straight to bed on arrival.

Still rainy on and off but had to take another trip to the Sydney Fish Market.
We decided to walk with Martin ( Chris was out to lunch) which took about an hour and were just ready for some lunch at Doyles. Two lots of fish and chips and for Er a mixed platter of prawns, scallop, squid and various fillets of fish all washed down with a bottle of Sav Blanc.
We also decided to buy some fish for dinner and Er and Martin decided on fillets of Blue Eye Cod.
All very difficult when you see what is available as below.

Martin transported the fish home and we made a trip to the Australia Museum which is very much like the NHM in London. We concentrated on the Indigenous Australian section which was about the Aborigines who were obviously around a long time before European settlers. It is hard to believe that they only got the vote in 1967. Oz definitely had their own Appartied . For a long period children were taken away from their families to be “educated” properly.

The Blue Eye was great.

Still raining, so not seeing Sydney at it’s best. Paul and I decided to take in the Opera House. We were tempted by the fact they had seats left for tonight’s performance for the ballet at £110 per ticket, or tomorrow’s Mahler at £75 per ticket. In the end we splashed out on a tour around the Opera!!! It was great, saw rehearsals of the new Romeo and Juliet, which starts on Dec1st. Architecture was amazing and very interesting.

Concrete structure designed by a Dane and engineered and built by Ove Arup

Came out of the Opera to more rain, bought myself some good old Aussie Ugg boots and then took a cruise up the harbour to cockatoo island (actually another ferry). Back to house then off to meet Denise a friend of C & M, drinks and tasty foods bits at her place and then to watch one of their friends who plays a double base in a jazz trio. We felt like the oldest swingers in town. It was a great place, graffiti everywhere, two groups, loads of ‘hippyesq types. Really good evening.

Today was moving day. We hoped it wouldn’t rain, but it did nearly all day. Chris and Martin moved out of the des res on the north shore, heading for Darlington, our new res. they are here to dog sit Harry, whilst his mums are in USA for three weeks. He wasn’t too excited by us, he’s quite a mellow fellow! After a large lunch of pasta with Martins sauce, we took the car to Pyrmont and decided to walk to a nd around Darling Harbour. Very pleasant, except for dodging the rain. In the evening we took in the local Indian.