Month: December 2018

Left Khowarib about 8am, after paying our bill. En route to Etosha, Olifantsrus Camp. We stopped on the way for diesel, they had it at Palmwag. Then shopping at Kamanjab, basic, but it worked. Even managed the post Kalahari Magnum! Arrived at the park about 2.30pm, bought our park permit from the usual dour staff at the gate! Our camp was about 60km from the gate. We stopped at several waterholes and were rewarded with giraffe(loads), springbok, kudu, ostriches, bateleur, zebra (loads), Secretary bird, great bustard, the back end of a rhino, and lots of elephants. At the camp we settled in chatted to neighbouring campers, had a beer, then went to the hide. Lots of zebra there, plus two jackal, guinea fowl, springbok. We left to eat and everyone came back telling us we missed a rhino! Really, why didn’t he wait? We’ve met again a couple from Vienna who we’ve crossed paths with three other times en route. So much so she invited us to go to visit them in Vienna. A charming couple. We must share email addresses. Lots of bugs here tonight, attracted by the light, moths and other things. I feel very twitchy! We went back to the waterhole after we’d eaten, very sad we’d missed the rhino, but we were rewarded with the rhino who came back, two single elephants and a spotted hyena. Great viewing. 

A day in Khowarib camp and  a bit of a difficulty deciding what to do today. Paul was toying with the idea of a trip down the Hoanib Dry River Trail but the staff on site said three vehicles had been washed into the river last week and we must now wait for the sand to dry out. When wet,  some of the sand becomes like quick sand and some is just very deep. He said the guides in the area are not doing the Hoanib at the moment. There goes our last chance to see Desert  Elephants we think.  Another suggestion for today was a trip across country on a 4×4 trail but again not recommended as we are on our own. Both these comments were verified this evening by three of the managers of the Lodge. So we went for a walk up stream to a small waterfall. Lots of red billed quelea swooping in and out of the trees and river. There are thousands of them, quite a sight. We then went to Ongongo waterfall but  basically a  spring. This place is only about 5km from here, but then 6km on an Off Road track.  Arriving, we met a man who spoke no english and having run to meet us ran off again! We walked down some very steep steps to a valley floor where there was a pool of water from a small waterfall. This was also a camp site. The man had run to find a lady who spoke English. Basically so they could charge us! Paul went skinny dipping in the pool, but I was too unsure about its cleanliness! We bought a very strange nick nack from a little boy on the road on the way back. Not worth anything, but 100N$ into the family pot. Four children all without shoes running over this stoney ground to get to us for a chance of a sell.  Makes you realise what we have! 

We had a light lunch in the Lodge then spent the remainder of the afternoon by the swimming pool. Last day in Kaokoland, off to Etosha tomorrow. Night sounds of the frogs etc amazing. Very noisy. Sitting in front of our wood fire, having had dinner and a bottle of red,  listening to all the sounds out there and about to go to bed aloft, bliss!!

Up early and took another trip into the conservation area. Spent two hours looking for desert elephants, saw some Kudu, but not an elephant in sight. Back to camp for breakfast and pack up for our short journey to Khowarib Lodge where we are staying for two nights. En route we saw about 12 giraffe and lots of springbok. Lodge at Khowarib lovely, very rustic but beautifully done. The camp is by the river, with water, a first in Namibia. We drove on to Sesfontein, which was very basic. A round trip if 60km for fuel, but the tank had a sign on it….. no diesel! We ventured into a couple of shops, very basic, few tins, salt, mealie, pasta, rice and loads of soap! Took a short trip up the road to Purros, to see what it was like, then a km into the Hoanib River bed! This is a difficult ride on sand. We think we may try it tomorrow, tyres let down. We’ll have a go, but turn around if it gets difficult. Bit daring to go alone. Marianne and Lod where are you? Ate in tonight, but had sundowners at the lodge

A day in Palmwag conservation area. It’s a huge site and we just touched a fraction of it with a four hour drive. A bit hairy in places, onto river beds with big boulders, definitely off roading. Didn’t see much game, but the scenery was stunning. Photos don’t do it justice. Saw no one else all morning. Spent the afternoon around the pool and ate in the restaurant that night.

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