Category: Namibia

We were woken just before dawn by the deafening roar of a lion not far from the camp. Nobody actual saw them but the noise was chilling. It meant we we up early for our last  five hour drive to Windhoek to drop off the car. We did catch a glimpse of two lion before we exited the park gate. The last sunset and dawn in the bush sadly.

This thrilling four weeks  and over 6000 kms of the trip is now over, the stunning scenery, wilderness, wild animals and intense heat is how we planned it and we were not disappointed.

The car safely deposited back to Bushlore we arrived at our very nice MonteBello Guesthouse at 3 pm.

Out to dinner tonight and meeting up once more with Ivana and Reiner who kept on bumping into on our trek around Namibia from way south to the far north. Such coincidence

Cape Town tomorrow and proper beds

 

Left Onguma for our last nights stop in the bushcamper at Okaukuejo Rest Camp about 140 kms drive. Took it slowly and stopped at various waterholes and took a few detours some of which were successful and others not. One detour took us right up against the Pan, quite a site. Spotted lion, rhino and hyena. Arrived at camp about 6 ish and sorted all our luggage back into our cases. Spicy bean pot for dinner

 

Our camp for two days is just outside the park so had to re – enter today. Drove around Fishers Pan, no water in any of the pans. No cats at all today but lots of other game and birds. Back to camp about 2.30 and chilled around the pool. WiFi at the camp reception good. Ate in the little restaurant, pasta for me and game steak for Irene. Very nicely cooked.

 

 

 

Left Olifantsrus Camp at 6.15 for the long drive to the Far Eastern side of Etosha for our two night stay at Onguma Rest Camp which is actually within a private reserve that ajoins the main park.

Stopped at most of the waterholes on the way and were rewarded at the first with a couple of lions on the prowl.

At onother on the western end it was teaming with all sorts,giraffe, kudu, zebra, wilderbeest, springbok, ostrich and lots of birds. No cats or elephants .

The rest of the way in the hot part of the day we didn’t see much at all

Stopped at Okaukuejo and Halali camps for drinks, lunch and wee wee

At the last waterhole before our camp we were watching some birds giraffe and a warthog when over the brow of the hill came about ten or so elephants for drinks at the hole, again running the last few meters as per the other evening . Great sight sitting and watchimg the antics, swishing water all owner themselves etc

Arrived at camp about 4pm, great site with our own ablutions, wash up area etc. Sat for a couple of ours by ourselves around the pool, one advantage in coming in the “hot” season is that it is very quiet, great!,

Chicken in red wine around the camp fire, not many of these left sadly

 

 

 

 

Left Khowarib about 8am, after paying our bill. En route to Etosha, Olifantsrus Camp. We stopped on the way for diesel, they had it at Palmwag. Then shopping at Kamanjab, basic, but it worked. Even managed the post Kalahari Magnum! Arrived at the park about 2.30pm, bought our park permit from the usual dour staff at the gate! Our camp was about 60km from the gate. We stopped at several waterholes and were rewarded with giraffe(loads), springbok, kudu, ostriches, bateleur, zebra (loads), Secretary bird, great bustard, the back end of a rhino, and lots of elephants. At the camp we settled in chatted to neighbouring campers, had a beer, then went to the hide. Lots of zebra there, plus two jackal, guinea fowl, springbok. We left to eat and everyone came back telling us we missed a rhino! Really, why didn’t he wait? We’ve met again a couple from Vienna who we’ve crossed paths with three other times en route. So much so she invited us to go to visit them in Vienna. A charming couple. We must share email addresses. Lots of bugs here tonight, attracted by the light, moths and other things. I feel very twitchy! We went back to the waterhole after we’d eaten, very sad we’d missed the rhino, but we were rewarded with the rhino who came back, two single elephants and a spotted hyena. Great viewing. 

Left Khowarib about 8am, after paying our bill. En route to Etosha, Olifantsrus Camp. We stopped on the way for diesel, they had it at Palmwag. Then shopping at Kamanjab, basic, but it worked. Even managed the post Kalahari Magnum! Arrived at the park about 2.30pm, bought our park permit from the usual dour staff at the gate! Our camp was about 60km from the gate. We stopped at several waterholes and were rewarded with giraffe(loads), springbok, kudu, ostriches, bateleur, zebra (loads), Secretary bird, great bustard, the back end of a rhino, and lots of elephants. At the camp we settled in chatted to neighbouring campers, had a beer, then went to the hide. Lots of zebra there, plus two jackal, guinea fowl, springbok. We left to eat and everyone came back telling us we missed a rhino! Really, why didn’t he wait? We’ve met again a couple from Vienna who we’ve crossed paths with three other times en route. So much so she invited us to go to visit them in Vienna. A charming couple. We must share email addresses. Lots of bugs here tonight, attracted by the light, moths and other things. I feel very twitchy! We went back to the waterhole after we’d eaten, very sad we’d missed the rhino, but we were rewarded with the rhino who came back, two single elephants and a spotted hyena. Great viewing. 

A day in Khowarib camp and  a bit of a difficulty deciding what to do today. Paul was toying with the idea of a trip down the Hoanib Dry River Trail but the staff on site said three vehicles had been washed into the river last week and we must now wait for the sand to dry out. When wet,  some of the sand becomes like quick sand and some is just very deep. He said the guides in the area are not doing the Hoanib at the moment. There goes our last chance to see Desert  Elephants we think.  Another suggestion for today was a trip across country on a 4×4 trail but again not recommended as we are on our own. Both these comments were verified this evening by three of the managers of the Lodge. So we went for a walk up stream to a small waterfall. Lots of red billed quelea swooping in and out of the trees and river. There are thousands of them, quite a sight. We then went to Ongongo waterfall but  basically a  spring. This place is only about 5km from here, but then 6km on an Off Road track.  Arriving, we met a man who spoke no english and having run to meet us ran off again! We walked down some very steep steps to a valley floor where there was a pool of water from a small waterfall. This was also a camp site. The man had run to find a lady who spoke English. Basically so they could charge us! Paul went skinny dipping in the pool, but I was too unsure about its cleanliness! We bought a very strange nick nack from a little boy on the road on the way back. Not worth anything, but 100N$ into the family pot. Four children all without shoes running over this stoney ground to get to us for a chance of a sell.  Makes you realise what we have! 

We had a light lunch in the Lodge then spent the remainder of the afternoon by the swimming pool. Last day in Kaokoland, off to Etosha tomorrow. Night sounds of the frogs etc amazing. Very noisy. Sitting in front of our wood fire, having had dinner and a bottle of red,  listening to all the sounds out there and about to go to bed aloft, bliss!!

Up early and took another trip into the conservation area. Spent two hours looking for desert elephants, saw some Kudu, but not an elephant in sight. Back to camp for breakfast and pack up for our short journey to Khowarib Lodge where we are staying for two nights. En route we saw about 12 giraffe and lots of springbok. Lodge at Khowarib lovely, very rustic but beautifully done. The camp is by the river, with water, a first in Namibia. We drove on to Sesfontein, which was very basic. A round trip if 60km for fuel, but the tank had a sign on it….. no diesel! We ventured into a couple of shops, very basic, few tins, salt, mealie, pasta, rice and loads of soap! Took a short trip up the road to Purros, to see what it was like, then a km into the Hoanib River bed! This is a difficult ride on sand. We think we may try it tomorrow, tyres let down. We’ll have a go, but turn around if it gets difficult. Bit daring to go alone. Marianne and Lod where are you? Ate in tonight, but had sundowners at the lodge

A day in Palmwag conservation area. It’s a huge site and we just touched a fraction of it with a four hour drive. A bit hairy in places, onto river beds with big boulders, definitely off roading. Didn’t see much game, but the scenery was stunning. Photos don’t do it justice. Saw no one else all morning. Spent the afternoon around the pool and ate in the restaurant that night.

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Monday 26th November 

Left White Lady about 8.30 am after ignoring all the advise not to do the off road trip we’d planned. The staff at the lodge were horrified that we planned this particular route. So we set off, on it! All was good, lovely views, quiet, sunshine….. until we reached Land Cruiser Hill! As soon as I saw it I realised why it was called that. A hill in deep sand. We tried five times to get over it, each time Paul getting more frustrated! Eventually the brain took over and we retraced our steps for 6km. After that we saw a few sandy hills ahead, but we managed all of them. A route of 100km took us three and a half hours……slow going. We needed diesel, so we took the long way to our nights stop via Khorixas. Filled up the tanks, bought more water which was running low and decided to put them in the back of the vehicle BUT we couldn’t open the back door. After two hours and the help of Gabriel at his ‘garage’ and 500ND later we had a fixed door but a hole in our gauze fly netting! The only way in! We think the lock was faulty and during our off road experience, it had locked itself from the inside. Now we are in Aabadi Camp, the only punters again. Simple ablutions, most of which are falling down or not serviceable! Wild camping at its best! Paul just walked down to the river bed to see baboons, d’assise (Rock rabbits), francolins, but was really looking for elephants. We haven’t seen desert elephant yet, but hope to in the next few days

Sunday 25th November

Bad start to the day, I have the runs! Intended to leave camp at half past seven to get to the White Lady Rock paintings when they opened at 8am. Had to leave it a while! Ventured out about 9am, cloudy, so we were lucky. Started the hour walk with guide Romeo, and French family, 45 minutes in I had to opt out. We returned to camp without seeing the rock paintings. Sat around quite a lot of the day, by the pool in the afternoon as my guts improved. Ate out in their restaurant that night. Basic food additional singing afterwards from staff. Hot camp showers were fired by ‘donkeys’, like a hot water cylinder on its side heated by logs. Very unusual and traditional, but effective. 

Saturday 24th November

As usual we were up early. Showered and then left to fill the diesel before we left Swakopmund. I found a coffee shop that looked great so persuaded Paul we needed another coffee. It was really civilised one of the highlights of Swakopmund, Kristinas. We decided to take the more direct route to Brandberg, via Spitzekoppe. This was a better road and more direct, but it still took us 5hours. We were very glad we hadn’t done the off road route we’d planned! White Lady Lodge in Brandberg, the camping is basic, but the lodge has two lovely pools, which we sat around twice and cooled off in the pool. We were there for two nights. First night we decided to cook for ourselves. We’d heard singing coming from the Lodge and at about 9pm out of the darkness came twenty people who asked if they could sing for us. It was lovely. They sang songs in the local dialect of the Damaraland language. Very clicky language. One of the ladies was carrying her 6month old baby, who didn’t murmur.  

 

Friday 23rd November

After a nice cooked breakfast we set off about 8.30 for the drive to Swakopmund via Walvis Bay. The landscape changed quite a lot, some small “mountain passes”, wide open plains and finally the desert landscape again where the sand dunes hit the Atlantic Ocean. The road from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund is called the Kalahari Highway, it has the sandy desert one side of the road and the sea on the other. Walvis Bay is the main port of Namibia through which just about everything arrives. Just to the south of the town is the Lagoon with its huge numbers of flamingos and other sea birds. Arrived at Swakopmund about 3 ish. It’s a lot cooler here and at time of writing we are wearing extra clothing and waterproofs, and we are in the tropics, quite bizarre.