Saturday 17th November
Up at dawn as usual now. This is so unlike Me and even Er is not usually this early. The early going to bed and the heat makes a difference. After the border immigration at Mata Mata formalities were over we were on our way at 9.00 am, now in Namibia on our way to Hobas near to the Fish River Canyon. One night here. The scenery on the way was stunning, miles and miles of desolate gravel roads for 460 kms. We did not pass a single car and there were no more than six to eight vehicles coming the other way. The “dune roads “ were fascinating rolling through a red ochre landscape then dry river beds opening out onto flat desolate open spaces for miles and finally Dolomite hills that look man made but go back millions of years with Quiver Trees atop.
Arrived Hobas camp at 3.30 pm, not bad on gravel roads, they are very well maintained and a speed of 90 to 100 kph is fine.
Went to the Canyon at 6.30pm for the sunset, stunning ! Back tomorrow for the sunrise before the short drive to Ai-Ais for another night stop.
Wonderful trip so far only to be enjoyed by being independent, traveling off the main routes can be very rewarding. The Fish River Canyon is a World Heritage site and hardly a soul to be seen. Lovely!
Sunday 18th
5.30 rise is now becoming the norm. No real hurry this morning but wanted to get back to the Canyon before the sun got too high and the day warmed up. Arrived at 7.30 am, not that hot so walked the 3 kms to another view point. All views totally stunning, so much so that photos don’t do it justice. The mind is the best photo, being in the place is what it is all about, photos are just memories all be it very important.
Completed the off road 4×4 trail along the Canyon edge, Irene having kittens. Saw Gemsbok, Springbok and the highlight about 10 Hartman’s Mountain Zebra. The Ai Ais National Park is famed for the Canyon and it’s wilderness and flora and fauna not as a game park, although as it is not fenced, there is a small number of species around, even some leopard.
Drove from the Canyon to our next night stop and Ai Ais Hot Springs Rest Camp. The camp is an oasis between barren and rugged lower sides of the Canyon with hot springs which is why the camp developed although it is again miles from wherever!
Lovely pool and camp ( not wild at all, all mod cons, electric hook up, nice ablutions, petrol, restaurant and a nice pool area. Arrived here early about 1 pm, decided to go for a cool and refreshing swim, shocked when diving in that the water is about 60 degs centigrade. There are hot springs here after all. Nevertheless once one adjusts to the temperature it is very therapeutic especially after all the driving we have done so far ( about 2000 kms).
Monday 19 November
Ai Ais to Aus today staying at the Klein Aus Vista camp at which we arrived at 5.30. We could have arrived earlier but we wanted to take the much longer Off road route. The scenery was a lot better winding through all the rocky outcrops and once again drove for over three hours without seeing a car or people. Before hitting this route we dropped into the Orange River valley which forms the border between Namibia and South Africa. Stopped at a town called Rosh Pinar to stock up with some much needed supplies, water, some fresh veg and a little fresh meat, just to tidy us over for the next 2 nights. It was a small town which has grown from the nearby zinc and copper mines. It looked quite prosperous and luckily the Spar supermarket reflected this.
Nice little camp with 8 spots. No electric and no lights, perfect. A few kms away is a “inn” which is owned by the same people as the camp. It has a nice terrace and restaurant and believe it or not a swimming pool. Off there now to catch the sunset with a sundowner and download some blog and catch up with some e-mails.
