As usual we were up early. Showered and then left to fill the diesel before we left Swakopmund. I found a coffee shop that looked great so persuaded Paul we needed another coffee. It was really civilised one of the highlights of Swakopmund, Kristinas. We decided to take the more direct route to Brandberg, via Spitzekoppe. This was a better road and more direct, but it still took us 5hours. We were very glad we hadn’t done the off road route we’d planned! White Lady Lodge in Brandberg, the camping is basic, but the lodge has two lovely pools, which we sat around twice and cooled off in the pool. We were there for two nights. First night we decided to cook for ourselves. We’d heard singing coming from the Lodge and at about 9pm out of the darkness came twenty people who asked if they could sing for us. It was lovely. They sang songs in the local dialect of the Damaraland language. Very clicky language. One of the ladies was carrying her 6month old baby, who didn’t murmur.
After a nice cooked breakfast we set off about 8.30 for the drive to Swakopmund via Walvis Bay. The landscape changed quite a lot, some small “mountain passes”, wide open plains and finally the desert landscape again where the sand dunes hit the Atlantic Ocean. The road from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund is called the Kalahari Highway, it has the sandy desert one side of the road and the sea on the other. Walvis Bay is the main port of Namibia through which just about everything arrives. Just to the south of the town is the Lagoon with its huge numbers of flamingos and other sea birds. Arrived at Swakopmund about 3 ish. It’s a lot cooler here and at time of writing we are wearing extra clothing and waterproofs, and we are in the tropics, quite bizarre.
A night in a real bed, luxury, BUT we were both awake early and left for Sossusvlei Dunes at 5.30am. The staff were already up and gave us our packed breakfast and coffee or tea before we left. Back to Sesriem to the Sossusvlei Dune Park. It opens at 6.15am, we were there about 6.30 am and were the 36th vehicle through the gates. The road was tarred through the reserve which made travel more comfortable. We stopped a few times en route to the end of the valley, to take photos. We left the tarred road for the last 4km, BUT we hadn’t put our tyre pressure down for soft sand and had a few worrying moments, where we had to reverse for a bit to try again without getting bogged down in the sand. We saw dune 45 that Sarah and John climbed, quite a few were doing it, it was a bit of a procession and we decided not to do it (too hot, too crowded, and too much of a whimp). We drove on to Sossusvlei and did the walk to Dead Vlei. It took about 11/2 hours, and was really hot on the return journey. The dunes are amazing, they go on for miles towards the coast and the length of Namibia. The colour is astounding, a rich amber/ terracotta colour. The shadows created by the early morning sun make it beautiful. We’ve taken a few photos and hope we can give a bit of an idea of the scale and beauty.
Back at the Lodge just after lunch, lazed, plunged, read and researched the next leg of our journey.
Our camp last night was near to the Duwisib Castle and they have a small restaurant, so we decided to breakfast there this morning. Full English but the coffee was instant.
On the road at 9.00. Drove the scenic route to Sesriem through the Namib Rand Nature Reserve. This borders the Namib/Naukluft National Park where Dunes start. We dropped into Sesriem to check out permits for Sossusvlei and for later on an off road trip towards Swakopmund. It was baking hot there, and I think it made our mind up that we must start very early tomorrow morning in order to be able to climb the dunes in the coolest part of the day. So it’s packed breakfast about 6 am and off to the dunes. We then drove another 50km to where we are staying for two nights, Moon Mountain Lodge. This is a canvas camp, huge rooms with en-suite all canvas and built on stilts. It looks over a huge plain towards the dunes. We are high with lovely views. Our room has its own plunge pool on the terrace. Quite different to last night! We had a beer in the bar and a dip in the pool. We were reading and the wind started to blow. It’s very fierce and you wonder how the canvas copes with it. I went out to get my towel on the terrace and one of the chairs and both our towels were in the plunge pool! Oops. Paul has just gone down to reception to ask for replacements.
We have dinner, bed and breakfast, so lap of luxury tonight. A girl has just arrived with two bath mats! Hopefully she’ll be back soon with bath towels.
We spent a very cold night at Klein Aus Vista, as soon as the sun went down last night we needed extra clothes. We needed to find the sleeping bags from under the mattress. We’d used them for extra padding, last night we needed them for warmth. We assume it was the height of the resort at 1,400m. We survived! This morning, up a little later at 5.50am, we had a cuppa and decided to take a walk before it got too warm. We walked for an hour and a half taking in a great view point over what I can only describe as a sand glacier! Check out the photo! We then caught up with emails at the main lodge over a coffee.
Our journey to Duwisib Castle took 4hours as we decided to take in a much blogged about route D707. It was off the main route and at least half of it was stunning. The silver grass contrasting with the amber dunes and road, quite beautiful. Again only a few on the roads, this time about 6 in four hours, so by Namibian standards very busy!
We arrived at Duwisib to find an eccentric castle, reminded me of Castle Drogo. Built by an eccentric German for his even more eccentric American wife, and filled with European furniture all transported here from Europe and eventually by ox cart. Some of the pieces are huge, can’t imagine how long they took to transport them in 1906. Now owned by Namibia, NWR.
Camp site a bit down at heel, so looking forward to our two day Lodge stay tomorrow.
Up at dawn as usual now. This is so unlike Me and even Eris not usually this early. The early going to bed and the heat makes a difference. After the border immigration at Mata Mata formalities wereover we were on our way at 9.00 am, nowin Namibia on our way to Hobas near to the Fish River Canyon. One night here. The scenery on the way was stunning, miles and miles of desolate gravel roads for 460 kms. We did not pass a single car and there were no more than six to eight vehicles coming the other way. The “dune roads “ werefascinating rolling through a red ochre landscapethen dryriver beds opening out onto flat desolate open spaces for miles and finally Dolomite hills that look man made but go back millions of years with Quiver Treesatop.
Arrived Hobas camp at 3.30 pm, not bad on gravel roads, they are very well maintained and a speed of 90 to 100 kph is fine.
Went to the Canyon at 6.30pm for the sunset, stunning ! Back tomorrow for the sunrise before the short drive to Ai-Ais for another night stop.
Wonderful trip so far only to be enjoyed by being independent, traveling off the main routes can be very rewarding. The Fish River Canyon is aWorld Heritage site and hardly a soul to be seen. Lovely!
Sunday 18th
5.30 rise is now becoming the norm. No real hurry this morning but wanted to get back to the Canyon before the sun got too high and the day warmed up. Arrived at 7.30 am, not that hot so walked the 3 kms to another view point. All views totally stunning, so much so that photos don’t do it justice. The mind is the best photo, being in the place is what it is all about,photos are justmemories all be it very important.
Completed the off road 4×4 trail along the Canyon edge, Irene having kittens. Saw Gemsbok, Springbok and the highlight about 10 Hartman’s Mountain Zebra. The Ai Ais NationalPark is famed for the Canyon and it’s wilderness and flora and fauna not as a game park, although as it is not fenced, there is a small number of species around, even some leopard.
Drove from the Canyon to our next night stop and Ai Ais Hot Springs Rest Camp. The camp is an oasis between barren and rugged lower sides of the Canyon with hot springs which is why the camp developed although it is again miles from wherever!
Lovely pool and camp ( not wild at all, all mod cons, electric hook up, nice ablutions, petrol, restaurant and a nice pool area. Arrived here early about 1 pm, decided to go for a cool andrefreshing swim, shocked when diving in that the water is about 60 degs centigrade. There are hot springs here after all. Nevertheless once one adjusts tothe temperature it is very therapeutic especially after all the driving we have done so far ( about 2000 kms).
Monday 19 November
Ai Ais to Aus today staying at the Klein Aus Vista camp at which we arrived at 5.30. We could have arrived earlier but we wanted to take the much longer Off road route. The scenery was a lot better winding through all the rocky outcrops and once again drove for over three hours without seeing a car or people. Before hitting this route we dropped into the Orange River valley which forms the border between Namibia and South Africa. Stopped at a town called Rosh Pinar to stock up with some much needed supplies, water, some fresh veg and a little fresh meat, just to tidy us over for the next 2 nights. It was a small town which has grown from the nearby zinc and copper mines. It looked quite prosperous and luckily the Spar supermarket reflected this.
Nice little camp with 8 spots. No electric and no lights, perfect. A few kms away is a “inn” which is owned by the same people as the camp. It has a nice terrace and restaurant and believe it or not a swimming pool. Off there now to catch the sunset with a sundowner and download some blog and catch up with some e-mails.
Up at 5.00am to do a drive before breakfast. Went to one waterhole for about 90 minutes.Hundreds of birds of various kinds swooping into and drinking from the water. Saw a Lanner Eagle swoop into the flying birds and caught one for his breakfast. Consumed it in front of us after plucking all it’s feathers first. A couple of Brown Backed Jackal came for a drink.
Back to the camp for a shower and brekkie, filled with petrol and a little shopping. Bought some internet time to check mails and upload Blog.
Set off for Mata Mata Camp on the Namibia border for a two night stop. Not a lot of the bigger game, lots of different birds, small and large. Arrived at the camp about 5.30 pm. It has a floodlit waterhole. Saw a couple of Cheetahs although it was not dark. Loads of lions the night before though apparently.
Friday 16th
Up at first light again Ugh!It’s so much cooler at this time. Within 30 minutes we sighted or first Leopard, ran right in front of us. Sadly saw no more. Today’s sightings were, Pearl Spotted Owl, Eagle Owl, several Vultures, Giraffe, Secretary Birds and more. No lion today unless we see them tonight. Arrived back at 3.30 pm at went for swim in the small pool, did cool us off a bit. Filled up with petrol again for thelong drive to Hobas in Namibia. Saw two Cheetah at the water hole after dark.
Blog posts will be intermittent for a while as internet/WiFi not available in the middle of nowhere!!
Another longish day driving to reach the Kgalagadi National Park.It is a long drive for most people as they probably live in Jo’burg orCape Town and it is 1000 km. Arrived about 5 pm, we probably took the wrong route from Kuruman, it was the least mileage but the last 150 km was on gravel Ugh !We stayed at a camp called Two Rivers which is on the Botswana side. The whole Park borders Botswana. Only 4 camp spots at this site and we were oneof two campersso nice and quiet. No light pollution and lots of night sounds. Steak on the barbie with a little veg plus the obvious bottle of red
Wednesday 14th November
Woke at dawn about 5.30. Quite cool at this time. Had to do some immigration formalities (complicated)On the road at 9.00 am for drive to Nossob Camp about 140 km. Lots of small water holes on the way for game viewing. Saw Springbok, Wilderbeast, Gemsbok, Lioness with three cubs and a Honey Badger to name a few. There are no Elephant in this Park. Arrived Nossob Camp at 5.30. Fenced Camp so secure from wildlife. Nice camp site with our own ablution and kitchen/wash up area plus electric hook up. Not that « wild ».
Up crack of dawn for Jeff to take us to the Bushlore depot in Midrand
After all the paperwork, checking of the inventory, filling up with diesel,we were on our way from Jo’burg at 10.00 am.Long day driving to our first night stop at the Red Sands Country Lodge at Kuruman arriving at 17.30. Nice site with it’s own little ablution block. After unpacking all our cases and organising the “kitchen” and a quick glass of rose we took ourselves off to the Lodge and indulged ourselves ina dozen peri peri King prawns and a bottle of Zonnebloem Shiraz, £15 a head. Wonderful. It’s warm , 34 degbut not to bad at time of writing, it’s 21.30 and nearly time for bed on the roof!!
Bus on time to terminal 1/2 at Heathrow. Transferred to terminal 5 and then relaxed in the lounge for a couple of hours. Plane on time. No problems.
Satuday
Arrived Jo’burg a little ahead of schedule, Jeff and Cheryl picked us up and arrived at their house before lunch. Beautiful warm day. Had a little snooze in the afternoon. Out in the evening to a super Portuguese restaurant in Turffontein. King prawns and La Motte red.
Sunday
Borrowed Jeff’s car and went to Woolworths to do food shopping .
BBQ in the afternoon. Bruce Grubb and Denise came, anold Clearspan Structures colleague not seen we left SA in 1982. Great to catch up. Cheryl’s mum and son Gregg also cam with there two children Connor and Jarred. Ribs galore!!Hot day 34 dogs.
Up at 5am and left Kei Mouth at 6am for the trip to East London airport. Collected from airport and went to Clearspan office. Had a chat with Bruce Maltby. Went off to Sandton City for the rest of the day to kill time. At airport by 7pm for our 10pm flight back to UK.
